Interlaken is an impossibly lovely Swiss village tucked away amongst the Alps. Two lakes of deep, clean blue flank the little hamlet to the east and west, connected by a glimmering river. The surrounding peaks pile upon one another, dominating the landscape, and their snowy precipices glare skyward in the summer sun.

Though each facet of Interlaken’s scenery is worthy of individual evaluation, it’s best appreciated all together. Panoramically. There aren’t too many ways to achieve this, but the method I chose – paying a crazy Kiwi hundreds of dollars to strap himself to me and huck the both of us out of a teensy airplane quivering at 13,000 feet – worked out pretty well.

I recommend it.

Skydiving (or parachuting) is one of many thrilling sports available during a summer visit to Interlaken. Others include, but are not limited to, mountain biking, rafting, paragliding, ice climbing, bungy jumping and canyoning. All of these activities were available to me and my pal John Mleziva when we stayed at Balmer’s Herberage, the single greatest hostel on the face of the earth and the centerpiece of our Interlaken experience.

Clearly designed with the winter sports enthusiast in mind (Interlaken boasts incomparable skiing and boarding), Balmer’s lost none of its considerable appeal in mid-June. Airy and friendly, safe and spotless, fashionably Swiss with its bright red shutters and mischievous, winking logo, the Herberage has a you-name-it, we-got-it quality. It features a bar and grill for happy hour, lounge chairs out in the sunshine, computers, game rooms, laundry facilities (blessedly), and an underground club wherein the hostel manufactures its own nightlife. Most impressive, though, is the activities desk where any of the aforementioned extreme sports can be booked. Nearly all of Balmer’s youthful and largely gorgeous guests simply wake up in the morning and walk directly to the desk to plan their day.

And pay for it. Mleziva and I chose skydiving despite its dizzying price tag, one so high that it cancelled out any hope we had of choosing another activity the following day. Bear in mind that the Swiss still rock their francs, opting to avoid the European Union and its meddlesome currency, so Balmer’s and Interlaken itself are not the cheapest destinations. However, few places on the continent are more spectacular, so by all means indulge yourself. A bit of splurging is good for the soul.

Skydiving was a popular choice amongst the myriad options at the activities desk. Mleziva and I had to wait until the day’s final run to board our plane. This allowed for a few hours of just strolling around town being nervous, but Interlaken was charming enough to put a damper on our mounting anxiety. The streets were immaculately clean, the medians overflowing with flowers, and the homes of the roughly 5,000 residents colorfully painted. Oh, and fabulous cars everywhere. We could practically smell the money. Way to go, Switzerland.

Come mid-afternoon Balmer’s shuttled us up the takeoff point where we received about an hour’s worth of instruction and safety precaution from the coolest guys in the world. We then donned our gear and boarded a cocky little one-engine plane for the fifteen minute ascent. It was during this time that my breathing quickened to an alarming pace. I began to question what could possibly have motivated me to put myself in such a ludicrous position. Then, suddenly, the wild man from New Zealand upon whose lap I was sitting threw open the door of the plane and gave me a maniacal thumbs up. I was to turn and sit on the ledge of the hatch with my feet on a little step. Agitated to the level of near-insanity, I did so. The Kiwi slapped my forehead back with the palm of his hand, then heaved us out. We flew together through time and space, chests to the earth, hearts exploding, screaming uncontrollably. That last part may have just been me, come to think of it. Yeah. That sounds right.

After about a minute the chute was out and I had tucked a broad strap under my butt, allowing for the impression that I was seated instead of dangling in limbo (which I was). Skydiving at this stage was surprisingly relaxed. The Kiwi and I spoke in normal voices and gaped in rapt astonishment at the surrounding terrain. He pointed out the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau, the area’s foremost peaks, as well as the pass between the latter two mountains known as the Jungfraujoch, famously accessible by train.

Then he asked, “So… you like FUN??”

“Yes, sir,” I said, at which point the lovable lunatic yanked on the parachute’s cords and we went whirling and swooping back up into oblivion. It was fun, and I did like it. When we landed I hugged him. He seemed used to that.

Mleziva and I spent the remainder of the day toasting our airborne experience in Balmer’s biergarten. It was during this time that we spied the pagoda-like structure at the summit of Harder Kulm, some 4,300 feet up on Interlaken’s north side. We inquired as to what went on up there, and were told it was a pub. Our second day had been planned.

Now, we chose this hike because we’d blown all our cash on skydiving and had to do something free. Also because the weather was perfect, and we figured that a spirited constitutional would feel tremendously refreshing – especially with a beer waiting at the finish line. Interlaken’s countryside offers myriad hikes, most of surpassing beauty, some which take you right alongside glaciers, and many that won’t come as close to killing you as the hike up Harder Kulm. But we asked no questions, scoffed at the tourists boarding the brick-red funicular car at the mountain’s base, and began to climb.

We hiked hard – HARD – for four hours. After two hours, the path flattened and we thought we must be close to the top. Then we saw a sign that said “120 minutes left!” and the little funicular car, in mockery, passed right over our heads. We sat down to weep. Those 120 minutes were even more demanding than the first 120, as the path only got steeper, the air thinner, and we ran out of water. By the time we reached the terrace at the peak’s acme, I could barely stand. No kidding – unless you’re doggedly intense, select a different hike. Maybe one of the glacial ones. Harder Kulm is a bitch.

Don’t skip the trip, though. On a clear day, the view from Harder Kulm truly is incomparable. Like a stay at Balmer’s, no time spent in Interlaken would be quite as memorable without it. But ride the funicular, which is quick and affordable, up to the top and savor the majesty. Along with skydiving, the view provides an opportunity to admire Interlaken all at once, panorama-style, and this is of paramount importance. Few vistas in Europe inspire such rapturous awe, and the topography is why this small town in Switzerland has inspired such a glowing international reputation.

That and the life-threatening sports. Those, too.